For years, Yohji Yamamoto has continued to push the envelope for what ready-to-wear means in men’s and women’s clothing; jarring and incomprehensible to some, while decadent and understanding to others. For Spring/Summer 2023 the legendary designer presented a variegated assortment of all-black runway looks – all perfectly stitched together with varying degrees of layering and intricacy – which set a halfway mark for Paris’ SS23 collections.

Outside of the bright colors and sleek design assortments seen this week in Paris, Yamamoto’s womenswear presentation included moody tones and fluttering fabrics comprised of corseted tops and dresses with cropped zip-front detailing, sheer cutaways and lace underpinning. Loose silhouettes reflective of an ‘80s aesthetic filled the collection with asymmetric detailing, extreme shoulders and art-inflected graphic depictions on leggings – along with a ripped version of leggings.

On the accessories front, wide brim, circular hats (in black and white offerings) topped off the laser-sharp, Ise-Katagami style fabric cutouts on jackets and gowns. Footwear included ballet-style flats, leather peep-toe booties, cut-out sandals and thick-soled sneakers in red, black and white.

Moreover, Yamamoto recently launched his new WILDSIDE conceptual clothing and accessories line, in addition to his Supreme collab for Fall/Winter 2022, letting consumers and buyers know that he’s showing no signs of slowing down and that his creativity is just as varied as his collections.

Elsewhere in Paris Fashion Week, Ib Kamara’s Off-White™ debut challenged societal notions for SS23.

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